Friday, October 21, 2011
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
|Fingers after a proud effort on the Incredible Hulk in the Eastern Sierras|
There are climbing areas where the rock and style of holds conspire to separate your finger from your nail. Sierra granite and Red Rock sandstone come to mind. It's like the old torture with the bamboo splinters under your nail.
The good news is that you can treat these wounds with Super Glue. If you're really smart, you'll foresee the insidious grit and apply the glue under your nail before you climb. Unstoppable.
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
There's only so much you can climb in a given week. How you use that time makes the difference between languishing in a comfort zone or thriving as you expand your ability and gain access to more of the world's greatest climbs.
I directed a few questions to Dan Hague, one of the authors of the Self Coached Climber, last week, hoping to apply his work in sport and bouldering towards on-sight trad climbing and larger mountain objectives. You can find the questions and his response here.